Paris Fashion Week spring and summer 2014 Saint Laurent review

Based Hedi Slimane, the most controversial designer working today, threw the fashion world into a tizzy with his first two collections for the storied French house of Saint Laurent. And he did it again Monday night in Paris.

After paying homage to 1970s rock goddesses and 1990s grunge for his first two women’s runway outings, he showed a spring 2014 collection that seemed to be deliberately tacky, and elicited yet another collective “Huh?”

The inspiration: It’s hard to tell, because Slimane does not really speak to the press. But obviously, the Saint Laurent archives were a rich source.

Key pieces: Lip prints, originally a homage to 1960s Pop artists like Andy Warhol, appeared on a wrap dress and sequin top. An olive drab military jacket, worn over a leather miniskirt, was a reminder of how Saint Laurent took clothes out of the Army Navy store and elevated them to couture. Several iterations of Le Smoking also came down the runway, some with sheer blouses, others with skinny ties that brought to mind the

Jussara Lee Shares Slow Style Ideology

Tonight, King Felipe VI  and Queen Letizia of Spain are the guests of honour at a state banquet at Buckingham Palace. The event, which Queen Elizabeth II, the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall, the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge and Prince Harry, among other members of the royal family, are also attending, marks the first full day of the King and Queen of Spain’s three day state visit to the UK.

There has been lengthy discussion as to whether Queen Letizia would make a diplomatic sartorial choice this evening, honouring both her host and home nations in a gown by Spanish fashion house Loewe, which is currently headed up by Irish designer J.W. Anderson. In fact, she chose Felipe Varela, her all-time favourite and go-to for major occasions, instead shining a global spotlight on the Spanish designer’s work.

The stylish Spanish Queen has, in the past, proven herself to be quite fashion forward, with jumpsuits and oversize earrings among the more daring trends she has adopted. So, although she always appears sleek and polished (often with a

Capturing Love, the Brooklyn Way

“One of the things that I noticed quickly,” the photographer Andre Wagner said of moving to Bushwick, Brooklyn, from Omaha in 2012, is “how you can see the affection of people out in public because so many things happen on the streets.” Mr. Wagner drew upon his background in social work when he started taking photos. “Living in Brooklyn, I see a lot of that family interaction, which I’m really interested in capturing.”

He took these photos in April, roaming between Downtown Brooklyn, Bedford-Stuyvesant, Williamsburg and Bushwick.

Mr. Wagner is also interested in the way different people come together on New York City subways and buses. “Here in New York, public transportation is such a big way of how people move around the city and all different kinds of people share the space, whether it is inside the subway or in a bus,” he said. “So I’m always interested in trying to figure

The new pirates

The vendors on Santee Alley are going underground with the good stuff — the $300 knockoff designer handbags so close to the real thing, they could fool an Hermes salesgirl.

Most of the bags displayed out in the open on downtown L.A.’s most infamous retail street (the No. 1 hub for counterfeit fashion goods in the U.S., according to the LAPD), are half-hearted, vinyl versions of “It” bags, crafted on the cheap in Chinese factories. And contrary to popular belief, these bags — bearing comical labels such as “Prawa” (Prada) and “Channel” (Chanel) — are legal to manufacture and sell. They aren’t, under current laws, considered counterfeit goods.

“If there’s a copy of a Chanel bag that has a logo that’s double-Os instead of double-Cs, we can’t do anything,” said Rick Ishitani, one of the five detectives on the Los Angeles Police Department’s anti-piracy task force. “But once the vendor cuts the Os into a double-C logo, that’s a violation.”

Under the federal Copyright Act of 1976, the line between design piracy in fashion (co-opting the cut, shape and silhouette of an item) and counterfeiting (faux goods posing as designer

LA. Represented well in the upcoming CFDA / Vogue Paris showcase show

Southern California-based brands account for half the lineup in an upcoming “Americans in Paris” initiative organized by the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue magazine and sponsored by Tommy Hilfiger.

Past West Coast CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalists tapped to participate include Jennifer Meyer, George Esquivel (Esquivel Shoes), J.C. Obando, Andrea Lieberman (A.L.C) and Elder Statesman’s Greg Chait, who won the most recent CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award last November.

The other five designers in the mix (also past Fashion Fund designers) include Wes Gordon, Sofia Sizzi (Giulietta), Daniel Silberman and Justin Salguero (Illesteva), Jennifer Fisher and Patrik Ervell.

As part of the program, the 10 designers are set to occupy shared showroom space at Le 8 Valois from Sept. 28 through Sept. 30 during Paris Fashion Week. The night before, Hilfiger is scheduled to host a roundtable conversation with, followed by a dinner in honor of, this year’s group.

The “Americans in Paris” program, now in its fifth season, was created as a global showcase for emerging American designers and leverages the exposure that comes with Paris Fashion Week’s international retailers and fashion industry

Olsen Mary-Kate’s twin, Ashley talks ‘Full House’ fashion influence

The Olsen twins have made a new name for themselves in the fashion industry with their luxury brand the Row, but Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen actually sashayed into the world of fashion at a much earlier age when they donned designer duds on the set of their hit sitcom, “Full House.”

The fiercely private twosome explained to Net-A-Porter magazine the Edit that their start in the industry coincided with their acting career while the pair alternated playing Michelle Tanner, the youngest daughter of the Tanner family when the now-syndicated comedy aired from 1987 to 1995. They were 9 months old when they were cast, allegedly because they didn’t cry when a TV exec carried them.

On “Full House” “we’d be in six-hour fittings three times a week, because we had to wear 12 different outfits,” Ashley told the mag.

PHOTOS: Family TV: Kid-tested, parent-approved

Wardrobe pieces came from Chanel and Marc Jacobs’ adult lines and were cut to fit the tiny actresses. Très chic, dude.

“We were designing clothes for ourselves as we were so petite,” Mary-Kate added. “So I think that is

Bernard Ozer 60 Trends People Wanted for the Fashion Industry

Bernard Ozer, the colorful trend spotter of the nation’s fashion industry, has died of heart disease at the age of 60.

Jody Donahue, a friend and associate, said from New York on Tuesday that Ozer was 60 and died Sunday at Lenox Hill Hospital in Manhattan.

Until last month, Ozer was vice president of fashion merchandising and marketing at Associated Merchandising Corp. He was known throughout the trade for his weekly newsletter, Ozerview, in which the puckish-looking merchandiser discussed ways to put profit into street fashion.

Ozer, whose wardrobe ran to offbeat extremes, traveled the world looking for trends and styles that could be produced in America and sold in mainstream American stores.

With Associated Merchandising, Ozer helped promote and develop products for member department and specialty stores.

He taught at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Parsons School of Design, the University of Alabama and Kent State University in Ohio and appeared regularly on television as an industry spokesman.

Slightly Designing Back to Mode

Her old company is bankrupt, she’s knee-deep in messy litigation, and she has lost the rights to her own name. But Los Angeles designer Carole Little is preparing a return to the fashion scene.

Little and her longtime business partner and ex-husband, Leonard Rabinowitz, are planning a September launch of a design studio to sell Little’s creative talent to apparel manufacturers. Called Studio CL, the stripped-down venture marks the pair’s first project since their clothing company collapsed last year under a pile of debt after an ill-fated merger.

The implosion of that entity–Chorus Line Corp.–has triggered a spate of lawsuits, with Little and Rabinowitz, investors, financiers and former employees all claiming they were victims. But the most noticeable casualty for consumers is the Carole Little trademark itself. The line of better women’s sportswear and career apparel hasn’t been produced since last fall, and the label now is owned by creditors who have yet to find a buyer to make them whole.

Little concedes that prospects appear slim for working out a financial deal to regain control of her namesake brand. But if the Studio CL concept proves successful, her signature

Jussara Lee Shares Slow Style Ideol

Jussara Lee hasn’t matched Lauren Singer’s zero-waste lifestyle in that two year’s worth of trash can be contained in a 16-ounce Mason jar, but the designer is doing her part to share the upsides of sustainability.

At this weekend’s Slow Food Nations event in Denver, Lee will be part of a roster of speakers that includes Alice Waters, Kimbal Musk and James Beard award-winning chef Alon Shaya. More than 10,000 people are expected at the Slow Food Nations, which Lee described as “a modicum number,” compared to its umbrella organization, Terra Madre in Turin, which attracts half a million people. “But this is a great start in the heart of the country that invented fast food. We hope to change that model for good,” she added.

After first encountering the Slow Food movement in Italy in the Nineties, she quickly took to its philosophy of growing vegetables in smaller scale without the use of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers and raising animals without antibiotics and hormones. In recent years, she aligned her ethos personally and professionally, drawing several parallels between her fashion career and the Slow Food movement. In relation to sound health and well-being, Lee became

The fashion industry launched its new collection, Born Free and HIV Initiative

A Celine tote for $220? A Carolina Herrera shirt dress for $255? And shopping for a good cause too?

No, you’re not dreaming.

The items are available to buy at Shopbop.com andAmazon.com as part of a new capsule collection launched to support the private-sector-led charity initiative Born Free Africa, with the goal of ending mother-to-child HIV transmission by Dec. 31, 2015.

Kenya-born, Brooklyn-based contemporary artistWangechi Mutu collaborated with 22 fashion designers on the Born Free collection, including J. Crew’s Jenna Lyons, Miuccia Prada, Tory Burch and Isabel Marant. Items include drawstring pants, ladylike skirts, peasant blouses and scarves for women and children. Most items are priced less than $250, and all proceeds from sales benefit the organization.

The capsule is part of a series of fashion industry-led actions rolling out this spring to help highlight the global effort to achieve a generation free of HIV.

An article about the effort in the May issue of Vogue features photos by Annie Leibovitz following Victoria Beckham and model-designer-advocate Liya Kebede as they visit South Africa to learn about the work being done there to end mother-to-child transmission

The fashion industry boycotted the Dorchester collection hotel

Is this the end of designer dinners at the Hotel Bel-Air and charity fashion shows at the Beverly Hills Hotel?

If high-profile members of the fashion community have their way, maybe.

Several vocal personalities, including Decades boutique co-owner Cameron Silver and designers Brian Atwood and Peter Som have taken to social media to call for a boycott of the Beverly Hills Hotel and a host of other high-end Dorchester Collection properties around the globe with ties to the sultanate of Brunei. (The Dorchester Collection is owned by the Brunei Investment Agency, an arm of the Brunei government that manages the oil-rich country’s luxury hotels in Europe and the U.S.)

Silver told the Los Angeles Times that the boycott was in response to a recent law taking effect this month that increases the punishment for committing a homosexual act from a 10-year prison sentence to death by stoning.

“The fashion industry and its supporters are unified in boycotting these properties,” Silver said Tuesday afternoon, “Brian Atwood, Bryan Boy, Valentino, etc. … all have taken to our social media.”

Silver said the free-form protest started to

Esther Williams Offers Swimsuits to Lure Mature Women Back in the Water

It happens every spring. The weather warms up. The clothing racks begin to bloom with swimsuits and thoughts turn to that depressing chore: choosing what to wear in the water.

Mature women often find slim pickings. The tops are low-cut, the bottoms are high-cut and a hankie would hide more than some of the suits. Little strings tied together are designed more for perfect bodies in repose than older women who want to go swimming.

Faced with such skimpy choices, some women just stayed out of the water.

Now, the legendary queen of chlorine, Esther Williams, is hoping to nudge these women back into the pool with her new swimsuit line, called the Esther Williams Collection for Misty Swimwear (a division of Los Angeles-based Excelsior Inc.). The collection is available in the county at The Broadway, Bullock’s and May Co.

Unveiled locally at a recent fashion show at Crystal Court’s Broadway, the collection of 96 one- and two-piece suits (ranging in price from $38 to $66) includes some modern full-cut designs and some “retro” (i.e., old-fashioned) looks with shirred midriffs, halter tops and high waists–the kind of styles that

Less Glitz Ballroom Costumes and Better Fits

In the rarefied, regimented world of ballroom dancing, an incident in 1982 proved nothing short of a fashion coup: During an international competition, half a dozen of the world’s reigning ballroom dancers–queens of the floor–threw down their tutus.

For decades they’d been consigned to wear short skirts with layer upon layer of netting that made them look as if they had stick legs and huge hips. They’d had enough. So the world’s top dancers banded together and showed up for the final round of the British Open in the long, fluid gowns that have become the ballroom standard.

“Overnight they all started wearing Ginger Rogers dresses. Within a matter of months, no one wore the net styles,” says Elizabeth Knoll, a national champion ballroom dancer who teaches at the Imperial Academy in Buena Park.

Like Knoll, today’s ballroom dancers owe a debt of gratitude to the revolutionaries who made ballroom dance costumes more palatable.

Those who have seriously taken up the fox trot, waltz and other moves must also master the strict dress code of ballroom dancing, but they no longer look like extras in Swan Lake. Gowns for

Summer Wind Coloring Collection Hugo Boss became nice

What would one give for a cool breeze right about now? Such a thing seems unavailable for love or money, a little gust to break the stultifying heat, to aerate the close, humid echo chamber of the 24-hour news cycle and its rat-a-tat revelations. Just imagine yourself on a boat, floating serenely into uncharted waters — isn’t that better?

Hugo Boss, the German fashion label, thinks so, too.

It may not be able to offer the breeze, but it can offer the wardrobe, in the old spirit of “dress for the job you want.” Its spring 2018 collection for Boss, presented as part of New York Fashion Week: Men’s on Tuesday afternoon, was an extended meditation on light fabrics, unlined jackets and roomy Bermuda shorts. Suits came in papery cotton, anoraks in paper-thin leather.

“Everything should be light and easy,” said Ingo Wilts, the chief brand officer of Hugo Boss.

“As the world is roasting,” said this reporter, thinking back to a startling new set of conjectures about climate change published this week.

Brooklyn Mirage Club Finally Opens in East Williamsburg

To get a handle on the party’s sheer enormousness, it was best to ascend the breezy battlements of the four-story, castlelike structure. High-definition projectors beamed pink and purple images on the fortress walls. Rays of light sliced through fog like Bat signals. And a sea of tiny heads, as big as a city block, bobbed beneath palm trees and airborne KV2 Audio speakers.

This was not Las Vegas, Miami or Zrce beach in Croatia. A quick westward glance revealed the tip of the Empire State Building glowing like a cigarette cherry.

“I love this scene,” said Tengiz Iliaev, 34, who was standing on the highest turret. A native of Tbilisi, Georgia, he wore a woven duckbill hat and a heart-shape medallion. “What else do you want? A place where you can parachute?”

After a year of false starts and legal imbroglios, the contentious nightclubBrooklyn Mirage opened last Saturday as a huge, architecturally ambitious destination for deep house and techno parties.

It is the outdoor component of Avant

Myla Dalbesio is a Model That Makes a Stand With Beautiful Feminist Art

Ms. Dalbesio is a “fuller-figured” model and contemporary artist who has gained fans with her feminist take on self-expression, whether posing in a Calvin Klein underwear campaign, shooting a self-portrait for Playboy, performing nearly naked in the Chelsea Art Walk, or curating a critically acclaimed all-female show at the 2016 Spring/Break art fair. “I was pushing myself in the gallery scene, and then I just had such negative experiences with men — along the lines of sexual harassment,” she said. “So I stepped away and just decided to focus on my work.”

Big Break At age 16, she was discovered by Mary and Jeff Clarke (theteam who discovered Karlie Kloss and Ashton Kutcher) at a Teen Miss Wisconsin pageant. “My oldest sister entered me in the pageant unbeknownst to me, and though I was a purple-haired wannabe punk at the time, I dyed my hair back to brown and went along with it.”

Latest Project She recently appeared in Sports Illustrated’s annualSwimsuit Issue. The topless photo was accompanied by an essay by Ms. Dalbesio, reconciling her feminism with being a model. “I always say that body autonomy is

Lights May Flicker but Looks Stay Sharp

The Democratic Republic of Congo is the birthplace of SAPE, a loosely organized cult of dandies known as “les sapeurs.” SAPE is an abbreviation of the group’s name, which in English translates as the Society of Ambience and Elegant People. The contrast between the extravagance of their attire and the hardships of their lives has the effect of highlighting the dignity of their code. Indeed, dressing well is part of the culture there.

“Everybody wears these amazing colorful clothes and are so eager to show who they are,” Ms. Harris said of the people in Goma.

Ms. Harris was in Congo on a fellowship documenting energy poverty. She wanted to capture how people, many of whom don’t have reliable electricity or access to water, maintain pride in their appearance. In Goma, 14 of 18 neighborhoods in the city experience rolling blackouts on a daily basis.

“When I talked to people in Congo, they would say that, despite all the struggles and despite all the misery, pride in the way they dress is something they take really

Classic Americana in Las Vegas fashion

When Ryan Shorosky graduated from the School of Visual Arts in New York in 2014, he decided to drive an 18-wheeler around the country for a year, photographing truck drivers along the way. That was when he first went to Las Vegas.He returned there once a month over the course of that year.

On his latest trip, in May, Mr. Shorosky wanted to capture the variety of people who work in Las Vegas, especially those with unconventional jobs. “In other cities you might work as a barista, but in Vegas really strange opportunities exist for people that live there,” he said. He saw these two women outside the Bellagio hotel. The woman on the left has a tattoo covering most of her thigh. “There is a dichotomy that exists in Vegas where, from afar, things kind of look like they’re meant to be, but when you dig in closer, you figure out that there are a lot more layers to the people or the place,” the photographer said.

“I had this idea on my first day about exploring the iconic

Eric Underwood Royal Ballet Star of america

The most shocking thing about Eric Underwood, the American-born star of the Royal Ballet in London, is not that he has a potty mouth or a dragon tattoo shooting out of his navel. It is not that he has been photographed frontally nude by David Bailey for a fashion magazine or by Mario Testino mostly unclothed with Kate Moss for Italian Vogue.

It is not that, unlike the dance drones of the “Black Swan” cinematic cliché, he enjoys an evening at the Box, a raunchy cabaret here, and has been known to gorge on burgers and fries now and then.

All of these are established elements of the 33year-old Mr. Underwood’s reputation as an immensely likable if impious outlier in the rigid world of classical ballet. The shocking thing about him is what he does at home.

On those evenings when he is not performing at the Royal Opera House, or on stages around the world, he can often be found on the sofa at his house in Camden conducting one-sided geezer-type arguments with the judges

I Have Fashion Regrets

The turquoise and fuchsia weavings of the indigenous people of the Guatemalan village spoke to me. “Make us into a pair of jeans,” they said. I shouldn’t have listened, because the first night I wore them out in Manhattan those jeans made me look like a wall hanging.

We all have our fashion regrets, whether from overzealous sample-sale shopping or impulse buying at a market abroad. A new Rizzoli book, “I Actually Wore This: Clothes We Can’t Believe We Bought,” includes my regrettable jeans and the cringe-inducing garments of a runway of notables including Roz Chast, Yvonne Force Villareal, Molly Shannon, Chris Burch, Nick Wooster, Gary Shteyngart and Linda Fargo. It was written by Tom Coleman, with photography by Jerome Jakubiec.

Ms. Fargo, the Bergdorf Goodman creative doyenne with a new boutique that bears her name, models the Twizzler-red 3.1 Phillip Lim pantsuit she wore to a fashion event filled with people in black (the New York color of festivity), inspiring ungenerous texts and social media mockery.

“But I always like to scare myself a little,”